Length:  22.8 miles
Trailhead(s):  Cathedral Pass Trailhead (NOTE: Google Maps mislabels as the Cathedral Rock Trailhead.)
Elevation Gain:  4,959’
Trail Type:  Loop
Dogs:  Allowed
Difficulty:  Moderate
Permit Required?  Self-Issue at Trailhead
Considerations:  Heavy mosquitoes through mid-August.
Season:  Late Spring to Early Fall

Overview of the Cathedral Pass Loop

Embarking on a backpacking trip through Washington’s Alpine Lakes Wilderness is an adventure that promises rugged beauty, challenging stream crossings, and intimate encounters with nature. Our adventure along the Cathedral Pass Loop was no exception. From maneuvering tricky river crossings to camping beside a hidden alpine tarn, every mile of the route offered an experience to remember.

Getting Started on the Cathedral Pass Loop: The Trailhead and Early Switchbacks

Our journey began at the Cathedral Pass Trailhead near the Cle Elum River. Early on, the trail demanded our full attention with a stream crossing that meant a careful rock hop before encountering an actual bridge further along. The initial ascent on the route was defined by steady climbs through dense forest on long switchbacks — with soft loamy ground punctuated by patches of rock.

This early part of the Cathedral Pass Loop set the stage for the challenges ahead. Though views were scarce in these first stretches, the promise of what lay further in made every step well worth it.

Crossing the Waptus River and Reaching Waptus Lake

The Cathedral Pass Loop soon led us onto the Trail Creek Trail, a section marked by a significant descent and a series of river crossings. Our route took us toward Waptus Lake, with the Waptus River proving to be a formidable obstacle in June. At one point, the river swelled up to our waists, and we resorted to a makeshift crossing by bushwhacking downstream to find a sturdy, downed tree that served as a natural bridge.

Navigating the roiling waters required teamwork and trust. On one of these crossings, Chris assisted our dog Geo by holding her by her harness as she made the crossing. When the water became nearly swimming depth, quick thinking and steady guidance ensured we made it safely across using hiking poles and the natural supports provided by fallen tree limbs.

Once across the river, a short hike led us to the enchanting Waptus Lake. Nestled in an open area marked by downed trees that subtly designated campsites, the lake offered direct beach access and stunning views of distant peaks.  Even when a few mosquitos made an appearance, the gentle breeze kept them in check.

From Waptus Lake to Deep Lake: Rough Trails and Rising Challenges

The next morning, we set off on the Cathedral Pass Loop toward Deep Lake along the Spring Creek Trail, a route that joins the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) and follows a lively creek. The trail here revealed nature’s untamed side as we navigated avalanche zones strewn with downed trees and deadfall. While the rough terrain resulted in a few scrapes — and minor wounds for Geo — the challenging passage only underscored the raw beauty and unpredictability of the wilderness.

As we neared Deep Lake, the trail opened into a swampy meadow. Despite the persistent buzz of mosquitos (kept at bay only by a stiff breeze crossing the lake), the area around Deep Lake was captivating. Concerns over the massive amount of mosquitoes, however, led us to reconsider our plans for camping here. Instead, a local forest ranger shared a little-known “secret stash” campsite at an unnamed tarn further along the Cathedral Pass Loop near Cathedral Pass — information that would soon prove invaluable.

Climbing to Cathedral Pass: Views That Take Your Breath Away

Continuing the Cathedral Pass Loop, the climb up to Cathedral Pass was a gradual ascent along long switchbacks that rewarded us with awe-inspiring views. With each step, the scenery transformed: Sprawling vistas of Deep Lake slowly gave way to panoramic perspectives of towering peaks and the iconic Cathedral Rock. Despite a 1,500-foot elevation gain and persistently chilly, windy conditions at the pass, the experience was nothing short of surreal.

On reaching the top, we discovered several footpaths leading to potential campsites. Heeding the ranger’s advice, however, we opted for a short descent to a secluded spot by an unnamed tarn—a hidden gem within the wilderness. This secret stash campsite offered level spots for our tents and enchanting views of distant mountains and Cathedral Rock standing in stoic majesty. As the wind subsided near sunset, the inevitable return of pesky mosquitos reminded us that even paradise in the wild comes with its challenges.

The Final Leg of the Cathedral Pass Loop

After a night sheltered among the peaks, we woke to overcast skies that dulled the anticipated sunrise views. Undeterred, we continued our trek on the Cathedral Pass Loop, passing Nosh Nosh Wahtum Lake — a serene body of water boasting a great campsite, albeit with fewer dramatic vistas and its fair share of mosquitoes.

The final leg of the Cathedral Pass Loop was a gentle descent characterized by fewer technical challenges, despite sections with larger embedded rocks. The trail home was uneventful but filled with reflections on the diverse landscapes we had traversed.

Concluding Thoughts about the Cathedral Pass Loop

Our Cathedral Pass Loop adventure in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness was filled with moments of exhilaration, breathtaking scenery, and a sense of camaraderie that only the wild can foster. From the daunting Waptus River crossing to the ethereal beauty of the alpine tarn, each segment of the journey was a testament to the awe-inspiring power and unpredictability of nature.

For avid backpackers and nature enthusiasts alike, the Cathedral Pass Loop offers an unforgettable escape into one of Washington’s most cherished wilderness areas. Whether you’re drawn by the allure of hidden campsites, the challenge of steep ascents, or the simple joy of being surrounded by raw, untouched beauty, the Alpine Lakes Wilderness is waiting to transform your idea of adventure.

Venturing into this remarkable wilderness not only invigorates the body but also soothes the soul, reminding us that every step off the beaten path is a step into nature’s timeless embrace. Hike on!

Scroll down to learn about the GEAR WE USE and OTHER OUTVENTURES in this area.